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This is Part 1 in the series – Top Dozen Samsung Refrigerator Problems – Seattle WA & King County WA

 

When your Samsung refrigerator stops working, or doesn’t work as efficiently as when it was new,
YOU NEED HELP NOW – not a week from now! 

 

We are the help that you need to prevent inconvenience, worry, and costly food loss when your high-end refrigerator needs attention.

At Puget Sound Appliance Repair our Service Technicians know that a high-end refrigerators like Samsung, Viking, etc. require a lot of skill and experience!

 

Some of the specific issues that make your refrigerator so great to use – and so challenging to service include:

Bottom mount freezer
French door refrigerators
Side by side refrigerators
Top mount freezer refrigerators

Samsung’s Models and Features can also add to those challenges – but WE CAN SOLVE ALL YOUR REFRIGERATOR CHALLENGES!

 

We offer a free 10-year warranty on parts and labor. We use only Genuine Factory parts in your repair.

 

Give us a call to discuss any problems you may be having with your refrigerator. We’re happy to help determine what needs to be done, and to schedule a service call as soon as possible.

First time customers can also be eligible for a 20% discount on any repairs! Call for details!

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Top 12 Samsung Refrigerator problems – Part 1
NOTE: This article is for informational purposes ONLY
Do not attempt these repairs yourself!

 

YOUR SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR HAS THE FOLLOWING PROBLEM:

Refrigerator not cooling
Refrigerator water dispenser not working
Refrigerator ice maker not working
Refrigerator ice dispenser not working
Refrigerator not defrosting
Refrigerator is noisy or loud
Refrigerator defrost drain clogged
Refrigerator freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm
Refrigerator leaking water
Refrigerator freezing food
Refrigerator ice and water dispenser not working
Refrigerator ice maker overflowing

Extra Help For Your Samsung Refrigerator

Refrigerator light not working
Refrigerator runs constantly

 

DOES YOUR SEATTLE – KING COUNTY WA – SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR HAVE ANY OF THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS?

1 – Refrigerator not defrosting
Defrost Control Board
Samsung refrigerators have a defrost control board determines how often the defrost cycle runs. If anything goes wrong with the board, the refrigerator will not go not get triggered into the defrost cycle. Steps to take before replacing the defrost control board include: testing the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat check out OK, it is most likely the defrost control board.

2 – Defrost Timer
The item that turns on the defrost heater several times during the day is the defrost timer. Its function is to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is malfunctioning or has stopped working, it likely will not trigger the defrost cycle, or send power to the defrost heater when it is cycling. Troubleshooting a defective defrost timer is can be accomplished by slowly advancing the dial to trigger the defrost cycle. The compressor will normally turn off and the heater should turn on if the timer is working. If the timer cannot send power to the defrost components for any reason or advance out of the defrost cycle in 1/2 hour, it is likely that the defrost timer is not advancing properly. If the defrost timer is at fault, it should be replaceed.

3 – Defrost Heater Assembly
The defrost heater assembly will turn on various times during the day in order to melt away frost that has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the assembly is defective, the defrost heater system will not work, and frost may accumulate on the evaporator coils. Test to determine the defrost heater is defective by using a multimeter. You are looking for continuity. If the defrost heater fails to show continuity, it should be replaced.

4 -Defrost Thermostat
The refrigerator’s defrost thermostat continuously monitors the temperature in the evaporator coils. If the coil temperature drop below a set point, the thermostat contacts will automatically close, allowing power to activate the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the thermostat contacts will not close. As a result, the thermostat won’t provide power to the defrost heater. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range, replace it.

5 – Defrost Sensor with Fuse
The defrost sensor monitors the temperature of the evaporator. The defrost sensor has a fuse to back up the sensor in case the sensor fails. If the defrost sensor fails to shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow in order to shut off the defrost heater. If the defrost sensor fuse blows, the defrost system will not work, and the refrigerator will not defrost. The defrost sensor fuse is not resettable—if the defrost sensor fuse blows, you must replace the defrost sensor. To determine if the defrost sensor or fuse is defective, use a multimeter to test both the sensor and fuse for continuity. If either the defrost sensor or fuse does not have continuity, replace the defrost sensor.

6 – Main Control Board
The main control board regulates the power supply to all of the refrigerator components, including the defrost system. If the main control board is defective, it may stop sending voltage to the defrost system. Control boards are frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the main control, first test all of the defrost system components. If none of the defrost system components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

7 – Refrigerator starts to make a lot of noise – check these areas:

– Fan Blade
If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, especially when the door is opened, either the evaporator or condenser fan blade may be at fault. First, turn the evaporator fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the blade. Additionally, check the condenser fan blade to determine if it has any obstructions.

– Evaporator Fan Motor
When the evaporator fan motor fails, it often generates a lot of noise. This noise will be much louder when the refrigerator door is opened. If the evaporator fan is noisy, replace it.

– Condenser Fan Motor
There might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor bearings might be defective. The condenser fan motor is usually located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.

– Compressor
If the noise is coming from the compressor, the compressor might be wearing out. As the compressor wears out over time, it generates more noise than usual. Compressors often last for years after they become noisy. However, if your compressor is noisy, be aware that it is likely to fail. Your compressor must be replaced by a licensed technician.

– Water Inlet Valve
If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, particularly when the ice maker is filling, the water inlet valve might be at fault. The water inlet valve is an electrically-controlled valve that opens to supply water to the refrigerator dispenser and icemaker. Over time, mineral deposits can accumulate inside the valve and restrict the water flow. If the water inlet valve is noisy or loud, replace it. Do not attempt to repair the water inlet valve—disassembling the valve can cause the valve to fail.

8- Food freezes in refrigerator compartment – check these items:

– Temperature Control Thermostat
The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may cause the refrigerant system to run longer than necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.

– Thermistor
The thermistor monitors the air temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board then regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may run too frequently. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.

– Temperature Control Board
The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the control board is faulty, it may send continuous voltage to the compressor or fan motors. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.

– Main Control Board
The main control board might be defective. However, the control board is very rarely the cause of the problem. Before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of these components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

– Damper Control Assembly
The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not close properly, it will let too much cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck open.

– Damper
The damper opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper is stuck open, it will let too much cold air into the refrigerator. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold. Check the damper to determine if it is broken or stuck open.

9 – Refrigerator Is Leaking Water – A dangerous condition in a high-traffic area such as a kitchen – check these items:

– Defrost Drain Is Clogged or Freezing
If the defrost drain in your Samsung refrigerator has frozen, the water will tend to overflow the drain trough which will flow down to the bottom of the compartment. This water can eventually leak onto the floor. Check the defrost drain to determine if it is clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw the ice. In addition, flush the drain with hot water to ensure that it is clear of debris.

– Water Tank Assembly
If water is leaking,  the water tank assembly should be inspected for any leaks. Typically such a leak may be very small and difficult to pinpoint. If you find the water tank to be the source of a leak, replace it with a new part. NOTE: The water tank cannot be repaired because glue does not stick to a plastic tank.

– Water Inlet Valve
The purpose of the water inlet valve is to open the supply water which flows to the dispenser and icemaker. Wjem the water inlet valve has cracked or there is a loose fitting, water may leak from the valve. By inspecting the water inlet valve for cracks or other damage, you can pinpoint the cause of the leak. Be sure that all fittnigs are secured tightly to the line supplying water to the refrigerator.

– Water Filter Housing
If the water filter housing has cracked, it may cause the leaks. If an examination discovers any cracks housing for the water filter, the housing should be replaced.

– Water Filter Head
The water filter head might be cracked, or the seal may be torn or missing. Inspect the water filter housing for cracks. If you discover any cracks in the water filter housing, replace it.

– Drain Pan
Self-defrosting refrigerators are equipped with a drain pan. The drain pan collects the water that melts from the evaporator coils. In order to evaporate the water in the drain pan, the condenser fan blows warm air from the condenser coils across the top of the drain pan. Because the condenser fan evaporates the water from the drain pan, the drain pan does not have to be emptied. However, if the drain pan is cracked, it will leak water as the defrost cycle is running. Inspect the drain pan for cracks. If the drain pan is cracked, replace it.

– Water Filter
The water filter might be not fitted properly on the filter housing. If the water filter is not fitted properly, water may leak from the filter. Remove and reinstall the filter to ensure that it is fitted properly.

10 – Refrigerator Runs Constantly

– Condenser Coils are Dirty
The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat from the refrigerator as refrigerant passes through them. If debris accumulates on the coils, the refrigerator will have to work harder to remove the heat. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will run constantly in an effort to cool down. Your refrigerator’s condenser coils should be cleaned twice a year.

– Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C)
If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the refrigerator will not be cold enough. If the refrigerator is not cold enough, it will work harder to cold down. As a result, it will run constantly. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15C). If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.

– Defrost Heater Assembly
The defrost heater assembly turns on several times during the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the refrigerator will not defrost, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the refrigerator will work harder to remove the heat. As a result, the refrigerator will run constantly in an effort to cool down. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.

– Defrost Thermostat
If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost thermostat might be defective. Several times a day the defrost heater turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer or refrigerator evaporator coils. In order for this to work, the defrost thermostat has to sense that the coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the temperature of the coils and then won’t turn on the defrost heater. If the defrost heater doesn’t turn on, the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling . The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity. It should have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.

– Door Gasket
If the Refrigerator runs constantly the door gasket may be torn or defective, or if the door is not shutting tightly warm air can enter the the refrigerator and cause the evaporator coils to ice over. This happens because humid air from the room is drawn into the refrigerator through the opening at the gasket. As the humidity comes in contact with the cold evaporator coils it condenses and freezes. Normally the defrost system removes this frost and ice. However, if the door gasket is defective the evaporator coils ice over too quickly and the defrost cycle cannot keep up.

– Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator runs constantly, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.

– Defrost Control Board
If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost control board might be defective. The defrost control board monitors several conditions and determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Eventually, ice will build up on the evaporator coil and then the refrigerator and or freezer will not stay cold enough. This will depend on where the evaporator is located. It’s prudent to check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity before replacing the defrost control board.

– Defrost Timer
If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost timer might be defective. Two or three times a day the defrost timer is supposed to turn on the defrost heater to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the timer is defective it won’t advance and won’t turn on the heater.

– Main Control Board
If the refrigerator runs constantly, the main control board might be defective. A few times a day the control board is supposed to turn off the cooling system and turn on the defrost heater to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the control board is defective it could cause the system to never cycle into defrost.

– Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator runs constantly there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.

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